Bathroom Design Ideas

There are many filler products on the market, all designed for a specific purpose.  Here’s a guide to what’s available.

All-Purpose

This filler comes pre-mixed or in powder form and can be used for small to medium cracks and holes on most surfaces.  If used outside, mix with a diluted adhesive. It can be painted over when dry.

Hairline Crack

Hairline crack filler is applied by brush and fills fine cracks in plaster, paintwork and plasterboard.  It dries rapidly. 

Paste

Paste filler comes pre-mixed and is recommended for repairing larger hairline cracks.  Dents in ceilings and walls can be remedied using this product, as can cracks in wood.

Exterior

If you need to fill cracks in exterior masonry, concrete or render, exterior filler is the product you need.  Once dry, it can be drilled into and is weatherproof.

Plaster Repair

Large holes in plaster can be filled using plaster repair filler.  It dries to a smooth finish and comes in powder  or pre-mixed form.  It takes 24 hours to dry.

Wood

Use wood filler to fill cracks and holes in wood.  Different shades are available for colour matching.  It’s usually sold pre-mixed in small tins.

Polyester Based Metal Filler

Designed to fix holes and cracks in metal objects, it dries in five minutes and you should be able to sand it after about twenty minutes.

Frame Sealant

This is a rubbery filler applied using a cartridge gun, used to filled gaps between masonry or window and door frames.  It can be painted over once dry.

Foam

Foam filler is used to plug the holes where pipes pass through walls. This expanding foam sets hard and can be sanded and painted over when dry.

A lipping is a solid wood strip that is stuck to the edge of a board to cover it up, for example, in a table top. Lipping is applied to MDF before you apply the face and balancing veneers, and the solid wood lip creates an attractive edge that is also resistant to wear and tear.

Use the same tree species as that used for the veneer to get a good match. The veneer will overlap the thin edge of the lipping to create a smooth finish. Use much thinner lipping if you’re using pre-veneered boards but apply it in the same way.

First, cut a mitre in one end grain of each piece using a mitre trimmer, then set the lipping alongside the core with the inside edge of the mitred end aligned with one of the corners. Match this with the mitred end of another piece of lipping and mark the corner position at the other end.

Cut the mitres in the marked positions and continue until all four have been cut, then put the core in a vice and tape the first piece of lipping into position before gluing the adjacent edge of the core. Apply glue to the second section of lipping and place it in position on the glued edge, then tape the lipping into place.

Remove the unglued piece and glue the last two pieces of lipping around the core, then apply glue to the mitres. When the glue has dried, remove the tape and plane the edges flush with the core using a block plane.

Time and weathering will cause mortar pointed joins to wear down eventually. Cracked or worn joints are detrimental to the building or structure, as it is the masonry that holds a structure together. With a weakened mortar join, damp may enter the structure, causing further damage.

Inspect

A complete inspection of the structure will be required to search for any signs of damage to the mortar. Examples of weakened mortar are: cracked, loose or missing mortar, weakened, crumbling mortar, gaps between the mortar and masonry, water leakage and damp spots on the inside surface of the wall or the outside surface.

Removal

Using a thin chisel, scrape the old mortar from between the masonry. This method works well when caution is needed to prevent further damage to the surrounding brick or stone work. Chisels can be matched to the width of the joint.

Using a hammer, tap the chisel in the joint, disintegrating the mortar. A joint rake can be used to clear away remaining mortar, allowing a precise amount of mortar to be removed.

Re-pointing

Mix the mortar and fill the joint with the correct amount needed, taking care not to use too much. Too much mortar may result in an ugly, uneven-looking joint.

Shape the mortar as soon as it is set. Test by using a thumb print; if the print stays, it is just hard enough. Try and shape the mortar using the same method as was originally used, in order to make the new joint fit in with surrounding joints that did not require re-pointing.

Condensation can become a huge problem for your house, as it happens easily and has the capability to damage walls and other surfaces.  There are preventative methods you can take, but even then they are not guaranteed to curtail the problem.

Condensation occurs when warm air comes in to contact with a cold surface.  The most popular example is the warm air from inside your house on a window.  Kitchen windows will be particularly susceptible to condensation as food will be cooked there, warming the air and causing water vapour to be released.  It will cause wallpaper to dampen and can effectively ruin windowsills as the water seeps through to the wood.

An obvious riposte to condensation is to open windows to increase the circulation of air in the house.  However, in winter months this is not always advisable, so condensation is likely to be especially prevalent during the cold.  Increasing the warmth of air in the house will mean it will hold the water vapour better.  Therefore, having reliable heating systems will diminish the likelihood of condensation in a particular room.  Double-glazed windows will also help, with the extra sheet making them less prone to low temperatures.

Insulation is important to preventing condensation, as if it is not capable enough, the surface and inside of walls can be too cold and will dampen quicker.  With the effects of condensation being visible, it should be easy to see if you have good insulation should you not be sure.

One of the more challenging DIY home decorating projects is tiling a kitchen or bathroom wall.  Many baulk at the idea, as it seems too big a task; however, with a little thought it is no different from any other job.

As with any project, preparation is important and tiling is no different.  It is therefore essential that the walls you intend tiling are properly prepared.  Ensure that they are clear of any excess plaster, bumps and lumps.  If there are any holes or cracks they must be filled with a suitable filler and if the surface is too uneven, it may have to be entirely re-plastered.  Tiles must not be fixed to bare brick, because they will probably fall off.  Even if they remain fixed, the tiles will often lift, giving a very uneven and ugly finish.

If you do have to re-plaster, do not attempt to tile the wall until the plaster has had time to dry fully.  This can take up to 14 days, possibly more, depending on how much moisture remains. 

Not all tile adhesives are suitable for all walls, so it is essential to take advice and read the manufacturer’s instructions.  You will often find that new plaster will need a primer or undercoat before tile adhesive is applied to it.

Tiling over Tiles

If the wall is already tiled, you might decide to fix the new ones over the top.  If you do, be sure you use proper ‘tile on tile’ adhesive.  Also, adding a new layer of tiles doubles the thickness, which can cause a problem with doorframes.  While this option can be tempting, as a short cut, not all walls are suitable.  An alternative is to paint the existing tiles or add decorative features.

If space is of the essence when designing or creating a new bathroom or shower room, consider clever design tricks and ideas to create the illusion of space and comfort.  Should you wish to fit a complete bathroom suite in a small room, then source a smaller than average bath and add a corner sink and wall-mounted toilet and fittings to save on floor space.  For a harmonious feel, install continuous tiles on the floor and walls to unify the room, or paint the walls in a pale colour to increase the light.  If you are lucky enough to have an attic space to convert into a bath or shower room, a skylight would be a superb addition to maximise the light.

Glass is a wonderful material to use to give the impression of more space and light, whether in the use of wall-mounted shelves, splashbacks or shower enclosures and screens.  Storage comes into its own in a small bathroom, so it is a wise idea to invest in a wall-hung bathroom cabinet or similar bathroom furniture to maximise floor space.  White or light-coloured walls and bathroom suites are always best if you want the room to seem larger, while dark-coloured walls may have the opposite effect.  If there is only room in your house for a shower, consider installing an open plan wet room shower, without superfluous bathroom furniture or bulky additions such as shower trays.  Clever use of storage, colour, and mirrors are invaluable when making a tiny bath or shower room deceptively spacious.

Most blocked toilets are caused by too much toilet paper, or by foreign objects that should never be flushed down a toilet in the first place.  It sounds like a domestic disaster, but a blocked toilet might not be as serious as you think.  Before sending out for expensive plumbers or drain engineers, you might want to see if you can clear the blockage yourself.

To begin, you need to identify the location of the blockage.  If you can, lift the outdoor drain inspection cover nearest your toilet’s waste evacuation pipe.  If you find that the chamber is full, you will need to clear the blocked area around the drain and pipes using a specialist drain rod.  If the chamber is empty and the drain is clear, it means the blockage is further up, somewhere between the inspection chamber and the toilet.

Insert a drain clearing wire into the toilet bowl and push as far as you can. Get someone to keep watch over the inspection chamber outside, in case the material causing the blockage becomes loose.  Any blocking material that becomes free should be removed at the inspection chamber, otherwise it may continue along the drain and cause more problems further on where it will be more difficult to deal with.

Plungers are the obvious choice for clearing blocked toilets.  Another effective tool is a toilet auger, a specialist tool sold in DIY retailers that has a long flexible reach and a cork-screwing action that clears blockages.  Some solutions are less sophisticated but equally successful.  For example, many people report great success with an improvised technique that includes a housemop covered with a plastic bag utilised as a giant plunger.

Do your radiators feel cool at the top?  Are some rooms cooler than others?  Perhaps your central heating system is not working as efficiently as it could.  To ensure your radiators are working as they should be, you could try bleeding them.

Bleeding a radiator is the term used for releasing trapped air in a central heating system.  You will need a bleed key that fits the valve at the top of your radiator.  These can be purchased cheaply and are widely available at DIY outlets.  It is recommended to have a bowl and a cloth on hand to catch any drops of water that may result from this simple operation.

First of all, turn on your central heating system and run it for ten minutes.  Ensure any thermostatic radiator valves are fully open, not forgetting heated towel rails.  Once the system is turned off again, insert the bleed key into the radiator valve and turn it anti-clockwise.  Do this slowly and carefully, making sure the cloth and bowl are in easy reach in case any drops should fall.  If trapped air is present in the radiator, you will hear a hissing noise as it escapes.  When water starts dripping from the radiator, close the valve.

You should check all the other radiators in the system for trapped air, although it is common for it to only affect one or two radiators at a time.  Finally, switch the heating back on and make sure there are no drips from any of the radiators.  Remember to bleed your radiators annually to keep them operating efficiently.

Over time grout gets damaged, mildews and gives your bathroom an unappealing, grubby look. Making the effort to re-grout will refresh the room’s appearance without the expense of a complete remodelling.

To remove the old grout, use a specialist grout saw (also called a grout raker) along the grooves, taking care not to scratch the tiles. The strong carbide tip will grind off the material. For the finer areas, use a Stanley knife or a chisel to dig away at the grout. Wipe away and vacuum any debris, as any loose pieces that remain will interfere with the application of the new grout.

The grout should be mixed according to the instructions on the packet. If you are only re-grouting a section of your bathroom, try to use a colour that matches the original. Dampen, but do not soak, the joints slightly with a sponge. Then, using a grout spreader, press the grout all over the edges of the tiling. Be firm so that that all the space in the joints is filled. Remove the excess grout from the tiles and wipe the surface with a sponge. Run a specialist grout shaper along the joints to ensure they are filled and to smooth the grout. If you use your fingers you are unlikely to get a uniform final result. To prevent water damage and mildew use, spray on a grout sealant after the grout has dried.

You can find a vast array of blinds for the window in different styles and using a wide range of materials both on the high street and online – companies like 247 Blinds always have a comprehensive range in stock for you to choose from.

247 Blinds and other retailers will have blinds to suit every taste and circumstance. Their staff are always happy to offer assistance and advice concerning the best blinds for different rooms in your home. Apart from the immediate aesthetic quality of a blind, in terms of its design and style and colour, you should also consider factors specific to different rooms, such as privacy and orientation. A thin cotton roller blind might be perfect for a north-south facing kitchen window, for example, but for a bedroom it would not be deemed appropriate for most people. Windows facing east-west are subject to sun-glare so, for them a thicker or adjustable blind will usually be needed.

The actual construction of your window can also have an influence on your choice of blind. If the window is used often and opens inwards, for example, a Venetian blind will not be much good – a roller blind will be a much better choice.

Carefully measure your window spaces and consider all of the options outlined above before popping along to your local outlet or browsing for blinds online – you could save yourself a lot of trouble and inconvenience later on.