Bathroom Design Ideas

We have all heard or experienced first hand, the horror stories relating to DIY projects. A survey, conducted by the Royal Society for the Prevention of Accidents, reported that over 64,000 people per annum are injured due to accidents that involve DIY tools. Below is a short safety wear guide and some simple precautions that will prevent you from suffering such accidents and keep you out of harm’s way.

Goggles

You should not begin a DIY project without wearing goggles. Most eye related injuries occur when a shortcut is taken and normal glasses are used. These offer little protection from flying objects.

Dust Masks

Many DIY enthusiasts think dust masks are unnecessary. While working on your DIY project you might not even be aware of the particles you are inhaling, but they can cause asthma and other serious lung problems.

Gloves

Your local DIY centre will stock an ample supply of good quality working gloves. Avoid the temptation to take shortcuts, rubber, kitchen or any other type of household gloves are not designed for DIY and can lead to nasty accidents, splinters and sandpaper-raw hands.

Footwear

Proper safety boots can be expensive, but are well worth the investment. There are many accidents just waiting to happen in DIY projects. Without proper footwear, a falling hammer or brick could cause serious damage.

Fire Extinguisher

Always keep a fire extinguisher close to your working area. Ensure that it is a chemical fire extinguisher, as they are more effective when dealing with most types of fires.

Ventilation

Check the labels of the products you are using for your DIY project and look out for toxic substances. If you are using paint, varnish or any other potentially dangerous chemicals in your DIY project, you should ensure that in addition to wearing a dust mask you also have proper ventilation.

If you are about to embark on a DIY project, remember that shortcuts can lead to accidents, so always take the necessary safety precautions.

In spring and autumn, homeowners should run through a quick checklist of property inspections to prevent household disasters from occurring.

Homeowners should start at the perimeter of the house, at the front. They should check their gates for sticking and squealing and should clear, rub down and lightly oil the gate in the event that they fail to find it functioning as it should. They should look out for damaged fence panels, loose posts and other fittings. If the job is quick, a hammer and nails will solve the problem with ease. Homeowners should make a note of any external paint or preservative jobs to be performed. Weeds and moss on pathways and concrete should be cleared with the use of a water jet.

Airbricks should be cleared of leaves and other debris and so should any heaps that bridge the damp-proof course. Any dripping taps outside and in need fresh washers or other attention should be seen to in order to prevent limescale build-up and excessive water bills. Leaking or damaged downpipes will need attention as that water can damage the building fabric in the long term or even undermine the building’s integrity. Soakaways should also be checked to ensure that water is being carried away efficiently. 

Finally, TV aerials, satellite dishes, their associated cables, and telephone lines ought to be firmly fixed and neatly secured. The wiring can become worn and exposed over time and the fittings can break free if left loose.

Beyond the half-year checklist, homeowners should take a methodical look around the building to look out for any signs of growing problems. Keeping a close eye on a property and getting ahead of any problems can save homeowners unnecessary expense.

Horizontal cable runs are generally laid in the space underneath suspended wooden floors to keep them out of sight and harm’s way.  When a cable is run parallel with floor joists, it needs to be clipped to the sides of the joists or just left alone to lie on the surface of the ceiling below, in cases where access to the joists is impossible.

Where cable is to be run at right angles to the line of the joists, the method is to lift up one board and then to drill holes through the joists, allowing the cable to be easily threaded through them.  This is better than cutting notches into the joists, because in addition to weakening them the cable would lie too close to the surface and might get punctured by a floorboard nail.

The board lying immediately above the cable run should be labelled in some way so that any future accidents can be avoided.  This will also be helpful when the cable run needs to be accessed at a later date.

Even with regular care and cleaning, there will be times when the grout between tiles will need to be removed or repaired.  This is because grout is a porous substance that absorbs dirt over a period of time and, as tile and grout are usually used in areas that get damp and dirty such as kitchens and bathrooms, over time the grout will start to discolour and look grubby.  Re-grouting the top layer or completely replacing the old grout will instantly make any tiled area look cleaner, newer and more appealing.

Your first step is to use masking tape to cover the surrounding tiles for protection, after which you can either re-grout or completely remove and replace the grout.

If you re-grout, you will only need to remove the top three mm of grout around the tiles using an inexpensive tool called a grout rake.  Simply pull the rake’s toothed blade along the existing grout to take off three mm.  You can then cover the remaining grout with new grout.

In most cases, to get rid of all the existing grout you will still use the grout rake.  However, if the rake cannot get rid of all the grout, you will also need to use a grout saw.  Firmly pull the rake or saw over the lines of grout.  Do this a few times until the grout breaks away from the tiles; brush the old grout from the joint until it is completely clear, and then apply the new grout.

Ridding floor tiles of grout will usually require a grout rake and a chisel.  Floor tile grout is stronger than what is used on walls because it is often mixed with sand.

As the bathroom is one of the most visited rooms in the home, there are steps that you will need to take to ensure that it is kept at its best.  Certain areas of your bathroom will often be exposed to water and will need treatment to prevent them from rotting or becoming mouldy.  A regular cleanout of your bathroom will help you to keep it looking at its best.
 
Steam from regular baths or Bristan showers can cause mould if your bathroom is not well ventilated.  There are a wide variety of extractor fans available that will help to remove any condensation.  Extractor fans are easy to install and are now available in a wide variety of styles, so you can easily find something that will suit and fit your bathroom perfectly.

If you have carpets or curtains installed, then there is a higher risk of them becoming damaged if they are regularly exposed to water.  Carpets easily absorb water, which will lead to them becoming mouldy.  If you can afford to, consider opting for a different type of floor such as tiles or linoleum flooring, as these will be easier to keep free of damp and mould.  You may also wish to consider replacing your curtains with blinds, as these are more suitable for bathrooms and will be easier to keep clean.

A regular cleanout of your bathroom accessories and products will also help to keep your bathroom at its best.  Any old soap, make-up, shavers or medicines should be removed as this will not only help to keep your bathroom tidy but will also create a healthier environment.  If you require extra space for your products, consider installing a small bathroom cabinet or vanity unit.  There are many designs available that will offer plenty of storage space as well as style to your bathroom.

Understanding cost-effectiveness is an important consideration when thinking about insulation. Although insulation costs money to install, it can provide two important benefits.

Heating bills can be reduced as there will be less heat wasted from inside the house, and less fuel will have to be used to maintain internal temperatures. The annual saving on heating bills will effectively pay back the cost of having insulation installed. Also, having better insulation means that you can have a less powerful and therefore less expensive boiler when you come to replace your heating system, which will be an indirect saving.

Decent insulation does not necessarily involve huge expense. The most effective elements of good insulation are fairly cheap, and save money over the longer term. You should insulate any water storage tanks in the roof space to protect them from freezing, and padded jackets are available in most DIY stores for this. Exposed pipe work in the roof space should also be insulated, usually by fitting them with ready-made sleeves which come in various standard diameters.

Loose-fill insulation is sold in bags and you simply pour it between the joists and then level it off with their top surfaces. Be warned that dusty types like vermiculite can be messy to work with.

Blanket insulation consists of standard width rolls of rock, mineral or glass fibre and is unrolled between the joists. A typical roll is between 6 and 8 metres in length, but you can also get short lengths called batts. A face mask, protective clothing and gloves need to be worn when laying this insulation.

Slab insulation consists of light and easy to handle slabs, but can cause skin irritation in some cases, as can their blanket equivalents. The width of the slabs matches the usual joist spacings.

Preparing to Lay a Carpet

The first thing to do is ensure the floor area is clean, dry and relatively even. Assuming you have already disposed of the original carpet, remove any remaining tacks or carpet nails; if they are too firmly attached to pull out, use a hammer to flatten them flush with the floor. If your carpet is rubber-backed, you will need to secure it with a 50 mm wide double-sided tale around the room’s edge. Woven carpets require gripper strips, which are fixed 6mm from the walls or skirting boards, teeth angled towards the wall.

Carpet Underlay

Rubber-backed carpets do not require underlay. Otherwise lay the underlay so that there is a slight gap, about 50mm, around the perimeter.

Laying the Carpet

You should now roll the new carpet the length of the room. Try to start in the corner of two plain walls, lining up the machine-cut edge with one wall before fixing it using either tape or grippers. The edge can be tucked beneath the skirting board with a bolster. The carpet must then be stretched across the area until it is taut. A knee kicker is required for this, which can be hired or bought.

Ensure that the carpet is as flat as possible by working at the opposite wall, using the kicker to stretch it onto the gripper. Trim the edge to fit, leaving about 5mm to poke under the skirting board.  Next go across the room the other way, using the knee kicker to stretch the carpet onto the gripper strips. When there are alcoves or radiator pipes, carefully cut the carpet to shape.

Beautiful solid wood worktops are expensive and people worry that they will be difficult to maintain. Usually these fears are unfounded and should not put you off investing in an Oak, Beech, Walnut or Mahogany worktop. Keeping the wood looking good is very easy, and any serious marks can be sanded down. You can’t say that about Formica or granite!

The two main things that can damage the wood are heat and water. You will need to protect it from extreme heat by setting hot pans down on pan stands or trivets. Water spills are inevitable in the kitchen and won’t do any damage if they are quickly mopped up and dried. Just don’t leave water to stand for long periods.

If you use the manufacturer’s recommended oil regularly, your worktop will maintain its natural beauty and colour. You will need to apply more oil as soon as it starts losing its sheen. If it is badly marked or damaged, you can resurface the worktop by sanding it down and re-oiling, bringing it back to its original glory.

DIY enthusiasts often struggle to achieve a decent seal between the edges of a bath, shower tray or basin and the wall. If a seal is allowed to open up, the walls and the floor can suffer from moisture damage. This means that it is essential for a bath, shower tray or basin to be permanently sealed.

In the event that you need to seal small gaps of approximately three millimetres in width, silicone mastic is the material of choice to use. This is a flexible sealant that you squeeze evenly into the gap from a tube which is fitted into an application gun. Once the sealant has been squeezed into the gap, it is smoothed with a wet dowel. The mastic is available in colours to suit your bathroom’s decor.

Larger gaps can be sealed using quadrant tiles or else special strips of plastic bought for the purpose. Whichever you choose, they’ll need to be bedded on mastic so that a waterproof seal is assured.

Damp in bathrooms is an ongoing problem but as long as all edges are properly sealed there should be no danger of water getting into the cracks and causing damage.

Redecoration in kitchens or bathrooms will often involve replacing or removing tiles from the walls.  It is a fairly straightforward task, but can become monotonous after a while.  Also, depending on how the tiles have been stuck to the wall, you could be in for a lengthy job to get them off.  The older method was to use cement mortar instead of the more recent move to using tile adhesive, which isn’t as strong but more practical.  If you are unlucky enough to have cement mortar behind the tiles, you will probably have to remove that with just as much effort as removing the tiles.

Before starting, make sure you have a pair of safety goggles, as small chips of the tiles are likely to fly off unpredictably during the process.  The only tools you will need are the trusty combination of hammer and chisel.  Starting from the edge of the wall if possible, hammer the chisel into the side of the tile.  The first tiles will often be the hardest to remove as they are supported by others around them.

Once the tiles are removed, you are likely to be left with some adhesive or cement on the wall, which needs to be removed as well.  A paint scraper should suffice for any adhesive, while it’s best to continue with the hammer and chisel in the case of cement.  If you find that you are chipping cracks into the wall, don’t be too concerned as you will probably have to use filler anyway in preparing the wall for the redecoration.