Bathroom Design Ideas

The floor of the shower is referred to in the bathroom industry as a shower tray, and is also sometimes known as a shower base, shower pan and even a shower receptor.  Shower trays come in two basic types – hand tiled shower trays, and what are known as prefabricated shower trays. 

Hand tiled shower trays are, as is implied by their name, shower trays which are tiled literally by hand.  Prefabricated shower trays, on the other hand, are constructed from hard acrylic polymer, which is one of the most durable polymers and is thus ideal for being used in shower cubicles.  Another factor which makes this hard acrylic polymer particularly good for making prefabricated shower trays is that it can be effectively moulded into any size or shape a shower cubicle requires, and will also come in most any colour the homeowner could require.  Thus whatever style or design of bathroom the homeowner wishes to have, a prefabricated shower tray will most likely be able to accommodate it.  

Prefabricated shower trays are by far the most used and popular, both in the United Kingdom and abroad, being available in almost every country throughout the entire world.  Another key aspect which makes prefabricated shower trays so popular among consumers is the sheer ease with which they can be installed; they come complete with drainage holes which can be easily rearranged to suit almost any bathroom or shower design, and are in most cases far more cost effective than hand tiled shower trays that a craftsperson needs to create by hand. 

Before you begin to do anything with the plumbing, ensure the taps’ water supply has been disconnected, normally accomplished via an isolator valve, which can normally be found on pipes adjacent to the taps.  It can usually be closed using a screwdriver.  If you do not have this feature then turn the water off at the mains with a stopcock.

You should now disconnect the pipes from beneath the taps, and this can be accomplished with a wrench by unscrewing the back nut.  Now lift the old taps out, at which point you might wish to clean the holes.

Now you can slot in the new taps into the holes.  Be sure to check that the plastic or rubber sealing washers are in place to prevent leaking.  You should then fit the back nuts, ensuring they are fully tightened, to lock the taps into place before reconnecting the pipes. 

Sometimes the existing pipework will not match up with the new taps’ connectors.  If this is the case, consider joining them up with flexible pipe connectors, which are available in a multitude of lengths.  However, it is common that you will need to trip the existing copper pipes in order to fit them.  File down the copper pipes once you have cut them with a hacksaw.  Now connect the other end to the taps.  Following this, you can turn the stopcock back on.  Run the taps, and check for any leaks.

What you need most when cutting tiles is confidence.  Have a few basic tile-cutting tools ready, prepare the area and be calm and collected when marking the cuts.  Cutting tiles often inspires unnecessary terror in a DIY novice and there is no particular reason for it.

Making perfectly straight lines on the slippery surface of the tile is crucial.  This is best achieved by using a tiler’s spike or other tile-cutting tool.  You must make sure, when scoring these lines that the cut penetrates the glazing; this goes for the edges as well as the face of the tile.

Place the tile on a solid, flat surface, with the glazed side facing up, make the scores and place a pencil or matchsticks under the line of the cut.  Press down evenly and firmly on each side until the tile snaps along the line.

If you are cutting a large number of tiles it is advisable purchase a tile-cutting tool of some description.  They are available in a wide range of models, from basic hand held to electric, but most will have some facility for snapping the tile.

When you are fitting tiles around fixtures and fittings things get a little trickier, as you will have to make a cut in the shape of an ‘L’ rather than a straight line, so you cannot simply snap it along the score line.  In this case, use a pair of pincers or pliers to nibble away at the area to be removed and use a file to finish off the edges.  You can also use a tile special tile-cutting blade, fitted into a hacksaw frame, to make more complicated shapes, such as circles or triangles.

There is one room in the house that somehow manages look more dingy and dirty than most and that is the bathroom.  Here are a few easy to follow DIY solutions.

If you have a tired old toilet seat that is cracked or slips, it is time for a new one.  Measure the seat from side to side and front to back and go out and buy a new one that matches these dimensions.  When you return, unscrew the wing nuts and remove the old toilet seat.  The wing nuts are located under the seat, close to the back of the toilet.  Unwrap the new toilet seat and screw it tightly into place; problem solved.

Perhaps you have paint peeling in the bathroom, due to the steamy shower.  Scrape off the excess flakes with a putty knife and sand the area a with medium grade sandpaper.  Apply a primer and when it has dried completely, apply two coats of matching paint.  Rooms such as bathrooms or kitchens should be painted with a semi-gloss finish that will help prevent mould, mildew and water damage.

Maybe you are a homeowner plagued by mouldy areas on walls and ceilings.  If so, mix one part bleach to nine parts water and apply to the affected area with a sponge.  Bleach can give off nasty fumes, so you may want to cover your mouth and nose with a protective mask.  If the mould is black or has really taken hold, some elbow grease may be required.  This treatment can be applied every two months in areas where mould has a tendency to return.

Baby boomers are unlike any other previous generation of senior citizens. They are far more active and physical in their everyday lifestyle, while planning to “age in place” as they retire. Fortunately the aids now available for use in bathrooms are very well designed and easily fitted.

A curb-less shower enclosure beautifully bridges the gap between luxury and necessity. A stationary water tower with shower heads strategically located up and down the tower make it easy for people using a mobility device or that need assistance.

Adjustable or easily moveable bathroom cabinets are an advantage to senior citizens that are aging gracefully. These versatile shelving and vanity choices can be adapted to make access easy, even from a low down wheelchair position.

Most modern homes allow for the easy installation of grab bars or fold-out arms for use later in life, for assistance in maintaining independent movement in the bathroom.

A new toilet on the market is one that is made at the same height as a kitchen or dining room chair, alleviating excessive bending for average height adults. Other bathroom accessories made for older users include gooseneck bathroom taps, low-lever handles, non-slip surfaces and the use of contrasting colours to help with depth perception and failing eyesight.

With 74 percent of all people over the age of 50 now remaining in their homes for the rest of their lives, it is clear there is a need for a functionally designed bathroom that will age as gracefully as its owner and let them live their life in style.

There is an inherent challenge in designing a bathroom for children. You want it to be age appropriate and yet not be easily outgrown. So how do you create a space for a child’s clutter, provide for their safety needs and add a touch of whimsy?

Avoid bright colours when planning bathtubs, shower enclosures, or bathroom sink. Start with neutral tones in the bathroom, using a beige or white foundation. The bathroom accessories can be brought in to accent the space with patterns, fan favourites, cartoon characters, or even dinosaurs. Then as the child matures, these accessories can be easily swapped.

Be creative with storage space. Get a hanging shoe bag for toys that can be anchored off the shower pole and out of sight when company arrives. Use a water resistant finish on a wall mounted sweater rack. Mount it sideways and hang children’s artwork from the pegs using knotting cord.
 
Be prepared for the lack of coordination of youngster and the clumsiness of early youth. Have a sturdy step stool that can be tucked away when not in use. Install touchless taps that allow you to control the temperature so there are no nasty surprises from water that is too hot. Use adjustable shower heads in the bathroom cubicle and transition seats for the toilet, which has been equipped with a quiet-close toilet seat. Consider motion sensors that will turn on the lights for the little people in your house.

With careful planning and a sense of fun, you can create a bathroom that will be adequate for the needs of your children, regardless of their age.

Bathroom and shower accessories come in all shapes and sizes in the modern age. From toilet roll holders to towel racks to towel rails, shower shelves, soap dishes, tumblers, toilet brushes and robe hooks, bathrooms have more accessories than one would think possible for just one single room in the house.

Even the humble toilet roll holder comes in a minimum of around five different types made from various materials. With wood, ceramic and stainless steel being the most popular.  The first type of design is the kind that is simply a piece of wire mounted horizontally on a hinge that hangs from either the toilet door or wall. This meaning that the roll actually still touches the door or wall and thus enabling the user to use the friction from that connection to tear off a slice or two of the tissues.

A more modern incarnation of the same basic principle includes a curled flat shield that covers the roll, to avoid actually requiring the touching of the roll itself. Then there are the kinds that are either horizontal or vertical that are recessed into the actual wall.

Toilet roll holders are also available as a separate pole on an unattached base, which can be particularly useful in households with members who are right or left handed. Then there is there horizontal axle that is actually positioned on that separate pole with its unattached base.

Unless this is a small part of a major property development project, you’re not going to need expert skills in the building trade or advice from architects in order to install a shower. Depending on where you locate the shower, though, you may need to do a little plumbing, plastering, painting and decorating or tiling in order to make good the wall that you feed the water pipes through.

A manual shower is essentially an adapted mixer tap: water temperature and flow rates are controlled by different taps, or by a single lever control. Thermostatic showers have an integral adjuster which responds to water temperature, automatically reducing hot or cold flow depending on the temperature you set. 

Begin by removing a length of plasterboard and cutting notches in the studwork where you want the hot and cold copper pipes to run (if you’re simply replacing a pre-existing shower, just connect the tap/spray to the pipes after removing the old one). Assemble and mount the tap on the wall in the position you need it and mark where the pipes will connect.

Run the hot water pipe by branching out from the vent pipe above the hot water cylinder. The cold water pipe needs to be taken from the pipe work below the outlet that feeds the hot water system. If you’re not sure about this, a plumber will install the copper for you, although his services will add to the overall costs! Connect the hot and cold pipes to the tap with the fittings supplied. Replace the strip of plaster, tile over and enjoy your new shower.

When choosing to remodel or update a current bathroom area, often people consider removing the bath completely and putting a shower enclosure in its place. The advantages of having both a separate shower enclosure and a bath are obvious, but what if there is only room for one or the other?

Shower enclosures take up less room than a bath, this helps when space inside the bathroom is at a premium. Showers are also cheaper to run than baths as less hot water is used per wash. This could be of help to those who are living within a tight budget each month. It is also the reason why those on a water meter often choose showers over baths.

The additional floor space gained by having a shower enclosure as opposed to a bath means that bathroom furniture, such as bathroom cabinets, could be used as extra storage space. A free standing bathroom cabinet is perfect in smaller bathrooms as it can be moved whenever needed to best utilize the area available.

Compared to taking a bath, a shower enclosure stays warmer longer, as the hot water fills the shower enclosure with steam and the space stays hot until the water is turned off. With a bath the water is cooling down immediately, and often a top up of more hot water is needed before the bathing has ended.

Shower enclosures can be as simple or as stylish as required; there are various designs to suit all styles of house and decor. Again, for those on a budget, plain square shower trays and regular shower doors can be bought cheaply from most DIY stores and are relatively simple to fit.

The most common bath is the acrylic one with a panel down one side, but  an increasing variety of shapes are becoming available and corner baths, circular ones, curved and free standing baths are now becoming very popular.

Most modern baths are made from plastic acrylic material which makes them relatively inexpensive but still very strong and easy to maintain. The main difference is that an acrylic bath is light and so it is easier to install and it retains the heat better than metal baths. Anyone who has previously used an old metal based bath will soon feel the difference in the bath water temperature. It stays hot longer.

When choosing an acrylic bath shape make sure that you have ample room in your bathroom to site the bath and install all the pipes and other fittings. The arrangement of the holes on the bath for taps is also important and it is vital to make sure that the recommended tap system for the particular bath will suit your water supply.  Make a note of the capacity of the chosen bath and ensure that your hot water tank can supply enough hot water to fill it to a suitable level.   For example, a brand new corner bath which only gets three inches of water in the bottom before the tap runs cold can be a big disappointment.

If you are unsure about the capacity of your hot water system, or have difficulty in imaging just how high the water level would be in the new bath, ask an expert for advice.